Monday, February 8, 2016

Kunsthistoriches Museum, Vienna

During a trip to eastern Europe in 2013, I had the opportunity to visit the famous Viennese Kunsthistoriches Museum (KHM). And what a visit it was. The museum is on the Ringstrasse, a grand encirclement of the center of Vienna that has been a feature since the 19th century.

This museum was founded on the Ringstrasse in the late 1860s. The Ringstrasse replaced the old city walls of Vienna, demolished by order of the Emperor, and replaced with grand and stately government and private buildings, spacious park-like grounds, wide sidewalks and the boulevard itself, as it does today. I only had a single afternoon while we were in the city on vacation, but I took myself to the Kunsthistoriches Museum alone, knowing very little about it Most times, when visiting a city I've at least read a bit about it or have a small store of information about the city and its museums but I blush to admit that I arrived there with only a rudimentary knowledge of the KHM. It faces the Natural History Museum, which has an identical facade, and was intended to house the Habsburg art collection, accumulated over the centuries of the dynasty.

The entry level isn't so grand as say, the Metropolitan or the Louvre, but once inside the building all I could say was "Wow." The central staircase takes you up to the main galleries, but the columns, the ceilings, and a riot of marble and color were almost overwhelming. You ascend the central staircase, thence up one or the other flanking stairs to the galleries. Also at that level is the cafe, about which more later on.
View on the landing Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna

The landing itself is dominated by a sculpture of Theseus Slaying the Centaur, by Canova, the 18th century neoclassicist. It's an enormous piece, heroic in both scale and subject, executed beautifully and smoothly in white marble.
Antonio Canova, "Theseus Slaying the Centaur" 1819
At any rate, I hadn't much time for Theseus, since my time was relatively limited and I was mostly interested in whatever northern European masterworks were likely to be in the collection. To say I was rewarded is something of an understatement. The museum collection includes works by van Eyck, Durer, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Breughel, and Caravaggio, to name only ones that I can remember without my journal. The Habsburg Dynasty held sway over much of Europe in its day, after all.

I climbed the imposing stairs and in gallery after gallery, found familiar paintings here and there, and more importantly I had the chance to see pieces that were completely new to me. There are a lot of works by Rubens plus the other artists mentioned above. In particular "The Fur," from the 1630s, a portrait of his second wife Helene Fourment emerging from the bath is a picture I've liked for years but hadn't known was in Vienna. This is a very personal work by Rubens and displays his enormous talent and his faultless eye. Unlike a lot of his huge studio works (not my cup of tea, mostly), this is one that I truly enjoy. And I had no idea it was in this museum.
"The Fut" 1638 by Peter Paul Rubens

Also in the collection is "The Tower of Babel" of about 1560 by Pieter Breughel the Elder. This is another that I've known about seemingly my whole life. It has been published many many times by everybody from news organizations to religious books. It's such a sweeping and fanciful vision of the Biblical story that I've simply always liked to examine it minutely. And again, I had no idea of its whereabouts until this museum visit. The KHM has a delightful collection of Netherlandish, Flemish and other Northern European painters. There are seveeral other Breughels including one of hunters in snow that's a real delight.
Pieter Breughel the Elder "Tower of Babel," ca 1560
On the Flemish side are other masterworks by Rubens as well as van Dyck and Jordaens. One particularly interesting exhibit showed a couple of Rubens' big studio canvases alongside the small, signature sketch done by Rubens' hand to guide the completion of the enormous finished piece by his studio assistants. While many truly enjoy those works by Rubens and his assistants, I'm always much more attracted to those that come from his hand alone.

Perhaps the most important work I saw (and didn't expect) was "The Art of Painting," by Johannes Vermeer. As was the case with other works in this delectable museum, I have seen the image many times--a painter and his model, the painter seen from behind in a sumptuous studio--but didn't know that it has been in the KHM since the end of World War II.
Johannes Vermeer, "The Art of Painting," 1665-1668
Unlike quite a lot of other European art, "The Art of Painting" was not stolen but actually purchased by Hitler himself in 1940. It was recovered after the war by the U.S. Army and repatriated to Austria, where it had been in the collection of nobles since the 18th century before being sold to the German Fuhrer,. This particular painting by Vermeer is one of his finest works (also the largest) and apparently one that he kept in his studio throughout his life. It was sold when Vermeer's estate was liquidated. Some time in the 17th or 18th century a fake signature of Pieter de Hooch was added (he was famous then and almost no one had heard of Vermeer), but it was this painting that sparked reassessment and rediscovery of Vermeer and his work. It was spotted by a German expert in Vienna in the mid-nineteenth century for a Vermeer. A decade or two ago it was found to be in bad shape but has since been restored brilliantly. It is a marvel, like so much of Vermeer's oeuvre, especially in his treatment of the light flooding in from the upper left windows.The painter has just begun his work on a mid-value gray support. He is blocking in colors and seems to have drawn his image onto the support with something white (chalk?). Maybe he's emulating his own technique? In any event, the treatment of light and the dazzle of highlights make this a real favorite of mine. And believe it or not, the museum was so quiet, so uncrowded, that I had it and the entire gallery to myself for long delightful minutes at a time.

Despite being large, imposing, and full of masterworks, the KHM seemed nearly empty during the several hours I spent there. As I mentioned above, the European galleries were quiet and uncrowded. Unlike, say the Louvre or the Metropolitan Museum in New York, which are consistently mobbed, the KHM provided the opportunity to contemplate the work without being shoved, bumped, included in twenty selfies, or simply moved along by the bustling. It brought back fond memories of the early seventies and eighties.

 After spending a great deal of time in the Northern European section, and taking any number of execrable photographs, my feet were tired and my eyes and mind overworked. At that point I took myself to the cafe for a bit of refreshment. Unlike cafes in some metropolitan museums, particularly in the United States, which have all of the charm of a factory lunchroom, the cafe at the KHM is frankly elegant. It resides below the dome in an expansive area in a daylight-flooded space surrounded by beautifully executed decorations and fine marble. Exceptionally civilized.
Cafe at the KHM

To my surprise, the KHM also has a substantial holding of works by one of my favorite painters, Diego Velazquez. In fact, there is a room containing perhaps ten or so. At first I wondered why the works of a Spanish master are in Vienna, but the answer is obvious once you remember that the monarchy which was served by Velazquez was a branch of the Habsburgs, whose collection is the foundation of the KHM. In fact, these were depictions of various members of the royal family of Felipe IV, the monarch served by the Spanish master. My favorite of the group is the "Infanta Margarita Teresa in Blue Gown" of 1659. The bravura brushwork that characterizes Velazquez' best work is most evident in his treatment of the sumptuous gown worn by the Spanish princess. This single work ranks, in my opinion anyway, with the very best from his brush.
Diego Velazquez, "Infanta in a Blue Gown," 1659
I could write considerably more about this great museum, but time prevents that. Instead, let me suggest that you visit the museum yourself. At least take an Internet stroll through the online collection. The Kunsthistorisches Museum is well worth your time.

Conservation of The Art of Painting
Kunsthistoriches Museum, Vienna

Friday, January 8, 2016

The New Whitney

Although I haven't posted a museum visit for quite some time, I'd be remiss by not writing something about the newest major museum building in New York City, the Whitney, since I had a chance to visit in December of last year. The new Whitney Museum building opened last spring in lower Manhattan after decades on Madison Avenue. In years past I had visited the former building at E. 75th and Madison, a brutalist edifice designed by the Hungarian-born architect Marcel Breuer (1902-1981). Although many like or even admire the building, it has never been a favorite of mine, nor has most of the museum's collection, nor for that matter it's general direction as a museum of "American art," however that may be defined. The collection has always seemed skewed toward modernism, especially newer trends in abstraction as well as installation and conceptual art. Although it's a topic for another blog, for me the direction of contemporary artistic output is unsatisfying.
Whitney Museum at 75th & Madison Avenue

Nevertheless, given that the new building has generated enormous publicity and because it's at the end of that delightful new park, the Highline, we decided to take a look. Renzo Piano is mostly a favorite architect, as well. It was a really lucky decision because we visited on an unseasonably warm and sunny afternoon.

To get to the Whitney, now in lower Manhattan on Gansevoort Street near the Hudson River, we took the A train south to 14th Street then walked west and ascended to the Highline Park and thence to the new building. This approach to the structure gave us a great view of the jumble of older buildings surrounding it plus other new ones that have begun to dot the old meatpacking district. There are still packers in the area, one of which sets cheek-by-jowl next to the museum itself. It's hard to appreciate the structure of the new Whitney without a few photos, so here are a couple.
The Whitney from Highline Park (see the meatpacker's truck, R?)
Looking south from Highline Park you can see the Whitney building with it's step-wise terraces arrayed on the east side. These terraces open from the interior galleries where enormous windows welcome the view of lower Manhattan into the museum. The terraces serve as sculpture courts and also provide visitors photo opportunities galore (mandatory in museums these days, it seems). On the west side, windows provide vistas of the Hudson River and New Jersey.

West side of the new Whitney building
The building is nine stories tall, glowing white and grey among its older red and buff brethren. From the west many have noted how it resembles the superstructure of a ship, which is fitting given that it overlooks the piers lining the Hudson. Besides it's new and open look, compared with the severely enclosed Breuer building, the new Whitney is larger and so allows more of the permanent collection to be displayed. One of the things I disliked about the old Whitney was the feeling of crowding that seemed inevitable.

The new structure designed by Renzo Piano, the famous Italian, has nine stories and 20,000 square feet, and sports one space on Floor Five that goes clean through, east to west, without columns, making it the single largest unobstructed space in the city. The entire Whitney building is spacious and airy, more like a European airport terminal than an art museum, especially on the ground floor. The galleries are all on higher floors. When you look at the building, only a block or so from the Hudson, and remember the flooding that Manhattan endured not so long ago, it's easy to see why it looks like it's on stilts. The most important contents are high above any future inundation.

No ponderous stairways to the promised land of art; no massive central assistance desk or massive neoclassical columns or arches to be found. All is modern, sleek, shiny or some shade of gray. There is a glass-walled restaurant on the east end and a gift shop--sporting a few pricey tchochke originals by Jeff Koons, among others--occupying the southwest corner of the lobby space but looking as if it could be broken down and moved at a moment's notice. Come to think of it, that's a bit of what the interior of the entire place is like, and I'm told it's intentional to provide as much flexibility as possible.

As for the current exhibition, we took the elevator to Floor Eight, where a retrospective of Archibald Motley was on display. Motley is known as part of the Harlem Renaissance, although he was actually a lifelong Chicagoan. Nonetheless, the exhibition of Motley's work, from his beginnings in classical oil painting through his years as a painter of the jazz age black experience was surprising, engaging, and thought-provoking. It was a pleasure to see the work and become acquainted with a very talented artist. Motley's work is well worth the time. He should be better known.

[Update: the painting below, "Gettin' Religion," and one of my favorites in this retrospective, has been acquired by the Whitney, according to the New York Times Jan 11, 2016 edition.]

Archibald Motley. "Gettin' Religion," 1948

At the time of our visit Floor Seven was devoted to the permanent collection. Clearly, this floor will probably be used to show a rotating sampler of the museum's collection. They did have several by Edward Hopper out, including "Early Sunday Morning" (a particular favorite of mine), "Seven A.M." which has always seemed singularly bleak to me, and "Railroad Sunset," dating from 1930 1948 and 1929 respectively. Also notable on this floor was the well-known "Dempsey and Firpo" by George Bellows, showing Jack Dempsey being knocked out of the boxing ring. Bellows was one of the Ashcan School of the early 20th century, and a particular favorite too. And to my surprise and delight there were also two works by Thomas Hart Benton, neither of which I'd seen before. The first was a scene from "Streetcar Named Desire," showing the principal setting and characters of the famous Tennessee Williams play/movie, including Marlon Brando and Karl Malden, among others. This one seems to predate the movie. The second Benton was "The Lord is My Shepherd," depicting an elderly couple at their kitchen table. Benton, in his own way, distorted figures and space rather like El Greco, at least so it has always seemed to me. In any event, both of these paintings were delightful to examine. Mixed in on Floor Seven was a whole lot of other, truly forgettable work punctuated here and there by memorable things. My favorite by Charles Demuth, an early 20th century painter, is his quasi-cubist imagining of a Pennsylvania grain elevator, "My Egypt," was on display. There was a lovely sculpted head by Elizabeth Catlett (1948), and an amusing painting by Paul Cadmus called "Floozies and Sailors," but for me much of the rest of the floor, and for that matter the museum itself is a blur and not very memorable. Alas.

Floor Six is devoted to the Thea Westrich Wagner and Ethan Wagner Collection. We saw it but I honestly don't remember much about individual pieces. The museum website has this to say: The current exhibition includes pieces ".....by, among many others, Diane Arbus, Robert Gober, Jeff Koons, Sherrie Levine, Richard Prince, and...will also include recent work by artists such as Liz Deschenes, Sam Lewitt..." More than 500 works comprise the gift that will enter the Whitney’s permanent collection. Perhaps there are others in the collection that are more memorable.

Floor Five is the huge unobstructed space mentioned above but in this iteration it's been configured to hold what the museum calls "the most comprehensive American retrospective to date" of Frank Stella's work. Stella began as a painter and often says that his three dimensional works are paintings, too. Much of his work leaves me utterly cold, particularly his early black paintings, but a few newer works speak volumes. "Eskimo Curlew,"
"Eskimo Curlew," 1976
a three-dimensional work that he calls a painting is one of the pieces that I enjoyed. It has French curve-like shapes contrasting over rectangular ones, each painted a different color. On the other hand, Stella's early works don't have much to say to me at all. And when someone has to explain to me why a piece is worthwhile or what it says, it has missed the mark in communicating, seems to me. His newer works are massive, sculptural, and often amazing to look at, but I've no clue what they're about, if anything, or what they are saying. Alas, they too don't speak much. We made short work of the retrospective and headed downstairs.
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This new incarnation of the Whitney Museum of American Art is more welcoming and more fun than the old building was. For one thing, Renzo Piano brings in considerably more light plus superlative glimpses of the surrounding city. In a very real way, this building is consonant with the current American culture. Most museums are enclosed, the world shut out in favor of the art on display, and the old Whitney always seemed like that to me. Here, the world and contemporary "American art" mingle, are part and parcel of the same world. The art isn't shut away from the world nor the world from the art. The new digs are also considerably more flexible and add to the museum experience if only because the increase in size makes it possible to put more on display. I like the airy new place much more than the old fortress.

By now we were famished but the museum restaurants on Floor Eight and on the ground floor were both full. We fled the museum and walked a few blocks north to the Chelsea Market, where we managed a sumptuous and rewarding lunch before hitting the subway back to our hotel. It was a successful and rewarding visit to a newly-interesting museum.

Here is a multimedia piece from the New York Times regarding the new Whitney:
The New Whitney

Friday, January 1, 2016

Why not, after all?

The thing is, it's almost seven years since my last post on this blog, but I've decided to give it another go. For a long while I simply lost interest in keeping track of museums I visit. In the intervening years I've had the chance to visit quite a number of museums both here and abroad, but didn't write about them, or at least not much. For now though, I'm interested again, so I'll probably drop a museum musing into this old spot once in a blue moon (every couple of months or so, perhaps), starting soon. It's my blog, so I do what I want.

So if you're interested, watch this space.

Meantime, here's a favorite painting I got to see close up not very long ago.
Edward Hopper, "Early Sunday Morning," 1930

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

The New MoMA

Last spring I had an opportunity to visit the remodelled Museum of Modern Art in New York. As had been the case with my previous visits, I found MoMA to be at best a mixed bag.

The newly-remodelled MoMA certainly feels more open, more accessible, more friendly, in a way, than the old museum. Founded in 1929, the Museum of Modern Art underwent renovations and remodelling that have nearly doubled the square footage. The newer portions have been given huge views of the surrouding streets of midtown Manhattan. Unlike it's earlier version, this MoMA has a lobby that connects Fifty-third and Fifty-fourth Streets and gives the visitor wonderful views of surrounding buildings, the Rockefeller Sculpture Garden just outside, and the enormous atrium, which climbs 110 feet above street level. According to the museum website, Japanese architect Yoshio Taniguchi won the remodelling and expansion commission to, his own words, "transform MoMA into a bold new museum while maintaining its historical, cultural, and social context." I think his design has done that very effectively.

Now about the art. The Museum of Modern Art isn't really about just Modern Art. The term "modern art," itself, seems to me to be misunderstood by many who decry modernism as decadent, or unartistic, or worse. In fact, if you attempt to find a universally-accepted definition of modern art, you're likely to fail because modern art to most experts encompasses a range of art movements dating from the late 19th century to near the end of the 20th. That means Impressionism and its successors like Expressionism, Cubism, Abstraction, Fauvism, Surrealism, and more are generally included. If you want to start an argument, simply propose that Modern Art is decadent and not really "art." You're certain to get somebody steamed up. And you can do the same by rhapsodizing about MoMA. But I like the museum, even if a significant portion of the works there leave me utterly cold.

So herewith are a few of my favorites, and a few of my most-disliked works held by the Museum of Modern Art.

Almost everybody knows the work to the right. "Christina's World" is an egg-tempera painting, acquired by MoMA in 1948, and is still the only painting by Andrew Wyeth in the museum. We see a huge field, partly mown, and a distant, weathered house toward which the woman in the painting is turned. Although the house in the painting did indeed belong to Christina Olson and her brother, the model for the figure was Betsy Wyeth, the artist's wife. Nevertheless, Christina and her brother were subjects of numerous other works by Wyeth. But the Wyeth is an anomaly at MoMA; indeed, this is the only work by that late contemporary master owned by the museum.

Here is another iconic work in the MoMA collection. Painted in 1889, "The Starry Night," by Vincent van Gogh, is an invented landscape but somehow seems very familiar. We see a wraith-like cypress towering above a village against a night sky that can only be described as fantastic, even perhaps troubling. The haloed stars and the queer, s-shaped structures in the sky have been variously interpreted as clear evidence of madness, or perhaps of toxicity to certain drugs. By the time Vincent painted this work he was deeply enmeshed in whatever illness (mental or physical) that would lead to his suicide by gunshot within a year. Still, this painting is probably one of the most reproduced images in the world of art. I love the chance to see it.



There is perhaps no image in art that has been so admired and probably so reviled as "Les Demoiselles d'Avignon," considered by many to be the most important work of the modernist era, Les Demoiselles was nothing short of shattering. Pablo Picasso painted this work in the summer of 1907, less than 20 years after the death of van Gogh. According to a museum publication, "the painting depicts five naked prostitutes...figures...composed of flat, splintered planes rather than rounded volumes, their eyes are lopsided or staring or asymmetrical, and the two women at the right have threatening masks for heads. The space...should recede [but] comes forward in jagged shards, like broken glass." This was the beginning of Cubism and a clear departure from realist painting. Clearly Picasso was influenced by African masks, and to him this painting was partly an exorcism of sexually-transmitted diseases (which horrified many in that pre-antibiotics era) as well as an aesthetic statement. Picasso called it "The Brothel;" the current name was coined by a well-known critic of the time. Despite its fractured appearance and lack of convention, this huge (8'x 7'8") painting was the result of literally hundreds of preparatory sketches and studies. Although I admire it aesthetically, I find it too full of the sexual anxiety and dislike of women that seems too often a part of Picasso.
Here is a painting that is less well-known that those above, but considered by many to be an important work. Henri Matisse made this in 1911, and for many it was baffling. The piece shows the artist's studio and includes images of several works he had completed recently. The walls of this studio, in contrast to those of his actual studio, are dark red and many of the items shown are not painted onto the red color but show through from underpainted areas. On one level, this work depicts the objects and paintings from Matisse’s studio at Issy-les-Moulineaux. The picture space is flat but perspective lines and outlines of three-dimensional objects give some clue to the actual space. According to some critics, Matisse's theme of "art in art" (paintings inside a painting), gained traction in this piece and followed him throughout his career. In truth, I find it an interesting intellectual exercise to look at the works of Matisse, but as art they have little effect on me. Matisse seems to have been a visual genius, but I'm not certain he and I speak the same language aesthetically.

When we were there, last spring, the exhibition at the time was called "Color Chart: Reinventing Color 1950 to Today." An eclectic group of paintings, drawings, installations, video, and even colored tape on the floor and steps running from the lobby to the second floor. Uneven is the first word that comes to mind. Some of the pieces were fascinating. In particular, I was taken by a video by John Baldessari called "Six Colorful Inside Jobs." Made in the late 1970s, the video gives us a man painting the inside of a small cubicle (perhaps 8 feet by 5 feet) successively red, yellow, green, blue, and finally purple. He paints the entire interior six different times. The viewer sees the entire operation from a god-like vantage point. For some reason, I found it fascinating. I can't understand why. I don't have the video, but you can see some stills of it on the museum website at http://www.moma.org/exhibitions/2008/colorchart/flashsite/index.html.

I suppose no writing about MoMA would be complete without mentioning Salvador Dali's famous "Persistence of Memory," from 1925. There are other works by Dali that contain melting watches, but this one is perhaps the best-known. The notes at MoMA suggest that the subject of this picture is time and its fleeting, tragic nature. In the middle is a rather amorphous and seemingly decayed creature, while all around, clocks and watches seem to melt and perhaps evanesce. I've always enjoyed Dali, perhaps because of his madness.

There is much more at the Museum of Modern Art, including furniture, automobiles, a helicopter, dishes, sculpture, and assorted bric-a-brac. Much of the Museum is devoted to postmodern works as well--Minimalists and Pop Art and all of the sad dreck of the late 20th century. There are great works here though, and these deserve to be seen. You can always walk away from the incomprehensible gibberish of Rothko and Reinhardt, the self-conscious kitsch of Andy Warhol, the assemblies of the glib huckster Koons, and assorted effluvia and find a wonderful piece by Chuck Close like the self portrait shown here from 1997. The brilliance of his idea, taking a picture apart, breaking it into pixel-like divisions that require painstaking attention to color and value, is undeniable. Here is a master at the top of his game. Wonderful.
A visit to the new Museum of Modern Art is something you should consider if you're in Manhattan and have an afternoon to spare. Although you'll find much of the cant and art-speak that contaminates nearly every phase of modern and contemporary art, ignore it and concentrate on the pictures. Some of them will doubtless move you. Many will leave you cold. A handful are utterly staggering.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

The Frick Collection--an Homage

By now I’ve visited the Frick Collection in New York City a number of times. But it wasn’t too many years back that I’d only heard of Mr. Frick’s magnificent collection. Thinking that my time in Manhattan was limited and besides, the Metropolitan is gigantic, I gave this jewel of a collection a pass. When I finally did come to my senses and visited the Frick Collection, I found it utterly charming and more important, as museums go it's quiet, uncrowded and devoid of the usual hubub. Here’s a little of what I know of the building and its contents.

Situated on 70th, just across 5th Avenue from Central Park, the Collection began as the residence of Mr.and Mrs. Henry Clay Frick in 1914. Before that the Lenox Library (now part of the New York Public Library) occupied the site. Although it was called “bungalow-like” by at least one newspaper, it’s actually an enormous, imposing stone building in the classical style. It was built to the specifications of Mr. Frick both as a residence and as a gallery for his already-imposing collection of art and antiques.

Henry Frick was a multimillionaire industrialist from Pennsylvania who made a fortune in coke and steel during the last decades of the 19th century. Frick initially made millions as the supplier of coke to the Pittsburgh steel mills, then made multi-millions working with Andrew Carnegie. By the turn of the 20th century, he and Carnegie had parted ways and Frick was devoting his attention to art and to his burgeoning collection. Mr. Frick was an autodidact in several areas, most importantly the history of art. A self-made connoisseur, he also had a sharp eye for quality. Although at least one former art dealer said that Frick had little taste and was inept at collecting, the quality of the works housed in this delight of a little museum belies that. In fact, the Frick rivals all but a handful of other world museums. As a singular vision of one man it reminds me a bit of the Philips in Washington D.C., albeit with a different focus entirely. The collection amassed by Frick has been expanded, but today’s Frick Collection is still those masterworks he purchased a hundred years or so ago. The Frick Collection features Vermeer, Rembrandt, Hals, Holbein, Chardin, El Greco, Goya, Velazquez, Gainsborough, Romney, Fragonard, and Boucher, to name only the ones I can remember offhand. We’ll take a look at a few in the remainder of this entry. Mr. Frick either had excellent taste or excellent advice, and his pockets were nearly bottomless. He said that he was collecting these artworks and decorative items so that they would eventually go to the public, and he followed through. In 1931, after Mrs. Frick died, the Frick home became the Frick Collection. Today’s building is an expansion of the original house; the entrance hall, Garden Court, a music room and a gallery or two were added along the east side. The property occupied the block from 70th to 71st Street.

Mr. Frick was apparently not very impressed with American painters and sculptors, although he did use American architects to design his house. The only American painter he collected at all was Whistler, who spent nearly his entire life in Europe although nominally he was American. Mr. Frick did own a portrait of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart, the only truly American painter represented. Guidebooks to the collection claim that the Washington portrait is only there because Mr. Frick thought it proper to own a portrait of the great man. But in general, he collected “old masters.”

Let’s look at a few of the works in the collection.

This painting, completed in 1527 by Hans Holbein, depicts Sir Thomas More, the famous humanist who served (and was beheaded by) King Henry VIII of England. As the best portraiture always should, this painting of Sir Thomas gives us a glimpse of his intractable personality, his clear intelligence, and his inner calm. More was Privy Councillor at the time of this portrait but would later become Lord Chancellor and in that capacity refuse to sanction the King’s separation from the Catholic Church. As he did nearly anyone who disagreed with him, Henry had More beheaded. The work hangs alongside the fireplace in the Living Hall, part of the original house, just as it did when the Fricks were alive. Holbein had a startlingly accurate eye, it seems, and his work bears close inspection from anyone who is interested in seeing how well a man could paint half a millennium ago. The velvet of the sleeve, the gold chain, even the stubble of his beard is rendered with exactitude and art. This is one of those paintings that you can study for a long long time. It’s one of my favorite portraits, and I always spend just as long as I dare loitering before it, wondering at the freshness of the colors and the astonishing facility of the man who put them down on this wooden panel so long ago. The painting is about 30”x24” by the way. On the other side of the fireplace is the less arresting portrait of Thomas Cromwell, Thomas More’s mortal enemy. Unlike Sir Thomas, Cromwell supported making Henry the head of the Church and became one of the chief persecuters of Catholics for a few years until he inevitably lost his own head to Henry’s anger. Of the two, I like the More better.

Directly over the fireplace is this El Greco, if you can believe it. Again, this one seems to have hung there during the Frick’s residency, as it does now. This large painting (about 42” x 36”) was painted a few years after the Holbeins, around 1590 or so, by El Greco and his helpers in four different versions. Another, nearly identical, is in the Metropolitan Museum, just up the road. El Greco, whose real name was Domenikos Theotokopoulos (his Spanish name just means “The Greek”), trained in Italy under Titian and painted in Rome for a time before settling in Toledo, Spain. Although I don’t know much about his life beyond that, his Mannerist works are always touching to me. Some experts have written that he was exploring religious ecstasy with his flame-like faces and hands, and perhaps that’s so. Whatever the painter’s motivation, the work in the Frick Collection is simply magnificent. Fittingly, across the room facing St. Jerome are two works by El Greco’s teacher, Titian.

One of my favorite painters is George Romney, a British portraitist of the late 18th century. Romney was a wonderful painter who somehow became obsessed with a woman named Emma Hart. The story goes that he painted many pictures of her and eventually lapsed into mental illness. This 1782 painting by Romney is titled “Lady Hamilton as Nature,” depicts Emma at about seventeen. It hangs in the Library, which is also the repository of Frick's enormous collection of books about art. When this was painted, Emma was already mistress to Charles Greville, who commissioned the portrait. She seems to have passed from her relationship with Greville to Greville’s uncle, Sir William Hamilton, whom she married. Despite being "taken," though, the active little minx also was in a torrid affair with Lord Horatio Nelson until his death at Trafalgar. Anyway, Romney painted about twenty portraits of Emma, being obsessed with her beauty. This one is quite lovely and fresh, and I like the dog a lot.

Another favorite of mine (and everybody else I think) is Johannes Vermeer. Much could be said about this one artist and his meager output of three dozen paintings or so. That’s for another time. The very best Vermeer, in my opinion, is “The Milkmaid,” which resides in Amsterdam at the Rijksmuseum. But perhaps that place could be challenged by “Mistress and Maid,” a lovely work even if the painting isn’t quite so finished as Vermeer’s work usually was. Painted around 1666 or so, long before the bright cadmium colors came along, this yellow robe nonetheless simply glows. This is the last painting bought by Henry Frick before he died in 1919. It’s a little mysterious because we’re let in on a scene where the maid is giving her mistress a piece of paper. The mistress is clearly the seated, richly-dressed and bejeweled woman. And she is apparently writing or reading something. It is tempting to supply one’s own narrative, perhaps even an illicit one. But there’s no indication of exactly what is going on. The mystery adds to the charm of this late work by the Dutch master.

Any museum would be delirious to own a Vermeer, but wonder of wonders, there are two more in the Frick Collection. One of them, “Girl Interrupted at Her Music,” is ordinary and rather dull to my eye, but the other is the “Officer and Laughing Girl,” a real favorite of mine. The officer is in a big, black hat with his back to us the viewers, and the girl is sunlit, smiling, holding what looks like a vase or a bottle—a gift from the man? The chairs in the picture and the map of Holland on the opposite wall of the painting can be seen in other works by Vermeer. If you go to the Frick, whatever you do, don’t miss these two paintings.
One of my favorite Dutch masters of the 17th century is Franz Hals. Hals was a very great portraitist who lived and worked in Haarlem. In his day he made a great deal of money but somehow always managed to be in debt. In the end he went bankrupt and his household goods were sold. Supposedly he had only three mattresses, an armoire, a table and five pictures when his goods were listed for sale. Whatever he had remaining, it’s a terribly sad story. In the Frick there are several of his portraits hanging in the West Gallery. None of the sitters is identified, although one is called “Portrait of a Painter.” Here are the two I like best. The first one is “Portrait of an Elderly Man,” painted about 1627. In this portrait, Hals shows everything I enjoy about his work. His draftsmanship is impeccable and his brushwork has the energy and looseness that make us marvel at his facility. The reproduction here does little justice to Hals and makes a trip to the Frick almost mandatory.

This one is “Portrait of a Woman,” purchased about 1910 by Mr. Frick. It’s tempting to view this painting as pendant to “An Elderly Man,” and indeed they hang in the West Gallery as if they’re a pair. But then again, Hals painted many many portraits so it’s not likely these belonged together. Nevertheless, once again Hals’ mastery of portraiture is clear. Hals had a true knack for loose but expressive brushwork. He’s one of my particular favorites.

The last painting for this entry is a Rembrandt von Rijn self-portrait painted about 1658. Rembrandt made perhaps sixty self-portraits, many brilliant. The most famous, perhaps, is the one in the National Gallery in Washington, painted a year afterward. In that painting, he has represented himself as an alert, intent man of affairs and appears younger than he does in this earlier painting. Here Rembrandt takes on the image of a ruler enthroned, holding a stick (or scepter) and wearing richly embroidered, golden garments. And the image is of a world-weary man who has by this time in his life seen everything and found it wanting. This painting also hangs in the West Gallery and unlike a number of other self-portraits by Rembrandt, this one is quite large and quite imposing at about 52”x 40”.

Rather than making this entry an encyclopedia of the Frick Collection, I urge you to take time to visit this delightful museum any time you happen to be in New York City. The rules of the museum provide for a wonderful experience (children under 10 are not allowed, there are no velvet ropes) and the ambience is gracious, calming, and altogether unforgettable.

Sunday, March 23, 2008

A First Time for Everything

Perhaps you remember your first museum visit. I certainly do.


The Gilcrease Institute of American History and Art in Tulsa, Oklahoma was the first art museum I ever saw. These days it's called "Gilcrease: The Museum of the Americas," and touts itself as "one of the country's best facilities for the preservation and study of American art and history," according to its web page. But in the mid-2oth century Gilcrease was one of a bare handful of museums devoted to Western art. Today there are considerably more institutions in the western United States that exhibit Native American art, "Western" art (more on that below), or historical art. Anyway, around that time we went to the museum for a school field trip, a mass of elementary school students, gleeful at escaping from the classroom and giddy with the excitement.


The Gilcrease, as I'll call it throughout this piece, was then as now located northwest of downtown Tulsa in the Osage Hills. Thomas Gilcrease, after making a fortune in the oil business, began buying art--a lot of art. In 1943 he opened The Museum of the American Indian in San Antonio, Texas, but it attracted little attention. In 1947 he bought an entire art collection. Today that collection is the nucleus of the Gilcrease. The group of works contained forty-six paintings by Charley Russell, the famous "cowboy artist," plus nearly thirty of his bronzes, but the jewel of the collection was (and is) bronzes and paintings by Frederic Remington. Remington began his career in art as an illustrator but made the leap to fine art in the early 20th century. In addition to works by these two iconic western artists, Gilcrease's acquisition included photographs by Edward Curtis and an archive of documents and correspondence of well known figures in the American West. Gilcrease, himself a member of the Creek tribe, exemplified a new interest in the Old West and the American Indian. (He had made his fortune primarily because as a Creek he had been granted 160 acres in Oklahoma that just happened to be on top of the largest oil discovery in North America up to then--what luck!) After the lack of interest in his Texas museum, in 1949 Gilcrease founded the museum I visited around a decade or so later.


Today the institute is called (rather grandly) Gilcrease Museum of the Americas, but the core of the collection is still Remington and Russell, with a healthy dollop of other well-knowns, including Albert Bierstadt, Thomas Moran, and George Catlin, among others.


So lets take a look at some of the features of the collection. You can't talk about Western Art without talking about Frederic Remington. Although many think he must have been a westerner, Remington was actually from New York. During the late 19th century, he made a reputation (and a great deal of money) as an illustrator for various periodicals and books, but he yearned for recognition as a fine artist. Although Remington did briefly attend art school at Yale, he wasn't that interested and left when he was still only eighteen. Refusing to go back to school, Remington instead went west to Montana in 1881 when he was about twenty. The mythical "Old West" was already fading by Remington's time, but the hook was set and he would return numerous times to sketch and paint. Nevertheless, except for brief periods, he never lived in the west.

The painting to the right, "The Stampede," is one of my favorites by Remington. It dates from 1908, a year before the painter's death, the period when he was intent on throwing off the label of illustrator. To that end, he began a series of extensive studies that resulted in a series of about 70 paintings he dubbed nocturnes. In these paintings, of which "The Stampede" is one of the finest examples, he throughly studied the color of night as he saw it. (For other examples, see the entry for the 2003 exhibition The Color of Night at http://www.nga.gov/programs/abstracts/remington.shtm .) If you look carefully, you can see too that Remington was a master draftsman. His animals and humans all have real bones, convincing anatomy, and personality. And he could render action better than many of his contemporaries. Note that the galloping horse has all four hooves off the ground. Clearly, Remington had studied the pioneering photographic work of Edweard Muybridge.

Although he made his name in painting, by the end of the 19th century Remington had also begun sculpting in bronze. The Gilcrease is rich in original bronzes by Remington and now hold 18 of his originals. Today you can buy reproductions via many sources, and there is a brisk trade in fakes. But the Gilcrease pieces were all produced by the artist himself. To the right is a view of the one that I've always loved. Remington called it "Off the Range," but it has come to be known as "Comin' Through the Rye," which in my view is much more appropriate. Here we have four cowboys, probably fresh off a cattle drive, tanked to the maximum (hence the "rye") and having a great time. Remington originally sold these through Tiffany's in New York City.


Besides Remington, the Gilcrease has perhaps one of the finest collections of Charley Russell's work. Russell was perhaps as well-known as Remington a century ago, although today I suspect his reputation is less glossy. Russell, like Remington, was not a native of the Old West but instead was born in St. Louis. Unlike Remington, though, Russell went West and stayed there, emigrating to Montana in 1880 to become a cowboy. He seems to have had no formal art training, and in fact his reputation was of "cowboy artist" came after a small watercolor of his, painted in the early 1890s, was circulated by the owner of a ranch where Charley was a cowboy. A his fame grew, Russell made many friends among well-off collectors of his works, including actors and film makers such as William S. Hart, Will Rogers, and Douglas Fairbanks. He died in 1926.

My favorite from that first visit to Gilcrease is this one, aptly titled "Meat's Not Meat 'Til It's In The Pan," is one that caught my adolescent fancy, probably because the title is humorous and the painting clearly needs the viewer to add some narrative. Russell was never the great draftsman or colorist that Remington was, but for a primarily self-taught painter, he was damn good.

Gilcrease is also a repository of American history and anthropology. The museum holds one of the circulated copies of the Declaration of Independence, signed by Ben Franklin, among other documents and letters by Founding Fathers, early maps, and even correspondence from the family of Christopher Columbus. There is also an extensive collection of Native American artifacts--clothing, pottery, basketry, and weapons.

If you're ever in Tulsa, take a couple of hours and visit. It's well worth your time.

Museums in History

The word museum used to mean "a place of study" and was inimately connected to scholarly work. The word derives from the Alexandrian temple called the Mouseion. It was built to honor the nine minor Greek goddesses known as Muses who presided over creative activity in aniquity. Over two millennia ago the Mouseion was a school and library; our word museum is rooted in that ancient Greek name. And the traditional meaning seems to have lasted for 1500 years or more. So a scientist in the 17th century might have worked in his personal museum, not a laboratory; a scholar often had a museum in his home--the kind of home office we'd call his study.


By the 19th century the word became closely connected to curiosity shows, displays of artifacts and the like. The great showman P.T. Barnum had a "museum" in New York City that was more like a carnival sideshow. Barnum's American Museum was located in lower Manhattan for more than twenty years including the Civil War before being destroyed by fire in 1865. Ever the showman, Barnum made a fortune charging visitors to see everything from the Cardiff Giant to General Tom Thumb, the most famous midget who ever lived. Barnum seems to have salved his scalawag conscience by providing serious lectures and displays as well; even devoting some space to natural history, notably by showing live animals and taxidermy exhibits. There were nods to political and social history, too. The American Museum owned paintings, wax figures, and personal memorabilia of a number of very famous people. In short, Barnum's place housed just about anything you could use to extract an admission charge for the public to see. Surprisingly, Barnum was both a teetotaler and a campaigner for temperance and promoted both in lectures at his establishment. If you'd like to read more, you can read more at http://www.lostmuseum.cuny.edu/archives/museum.htm.



Perhaps because of Barnum, among others, people in the 20th century began to view museums as places where virtually any collection of items was put on display, rather than as places of contemplation and education. It's tempting to say that the Smithsonian Institution also contributed to the trend; its vast and eclectic holdings spread all over Washington and environs represent the ultimate museum. And besides the well-known art and natural science museums of today, oddball museums devoted to nearly anything you can imagine have popped up across the world. Today you can visit museums of cheese, museums of barbed wire, museums of Bad Art. It's arguable that museums today are more like Barnum's and less like Alexandria's.


Quite a few contemporary museums of art rely on blockbuster shows of popular artists or movements to attract more visitors and hence more income. It costs considerable money to run an establishment like the Museum of Modern Art in New York and if the institution wasn't endowed by a billionaire the way the Getty (in Los Angeles) was or is not run by a government the way the National Gallery in Washington is, then the huge sums and considerable publicity accrued by running popular exhibitions are very very important. So we see continual (and repetitive) shows of Impressionists or Post-impressionists. Or we have head-to-head shows of Picasso and Braque. Or we see yet another show of the work of the gloriously mad Vincent van Gogh.


Luckily, the best art museums in this country do occasionally organize shows of the lesser-known artists of past centuries and the present day.